Insulating the Basement (II) – The Hard Parts

House

Here is the corner I’ll be tackling next for insulation (depending on an issue that will be described after the pictures):

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Excuse the mess. That is what happens when you move into a house that was just water damaged and you know that you can’t really put much out as it’ll all have to be moved around at some point during restoring.

You can see the 7 and some odd pieces of foamboard I have left. Should be enough to do that little left corner, the wall on the back, as well as up to that window on the top right. However, before I can do those areas, I need to figure out what to do with this:

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That bottom pipe is our water supply line (just to the right of the picture, it drops down to the floor to the main valve). The top pipe is out main gas line coming in from the meter. While the gas line isn’t in the way of the foamboard insulation, the water line is directly up the concrete. Is this too critical of an area to learn how to do plumbing or is it pretty hard to screw up? I’d like to move it through the joists and keep it out of the way. If you recommend going forward with this myself, would you do copper, PVC, or PEX? I like the look of PEX, but I’m not sure if it well suited for your main incoming water line.

The gas line I’d be more likely to hire out. I just don’t like the thought of a pin hole in a pipe leaking natural gas into my basement. Here is where the gas line comes in (you can also see another water line run):

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Once I figure out how to do this plumbing thing, I’ll get lots more practice over by the washer:

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That knob valve is for the exterior water faucet. Looks like at some point someone didn’t like the amount of pressure they were getting off of that line that runs to the washer so they decided to T off the main incoming water line and run one straight over here.

And here are some pictures for Todd at Home Construction Improvement. These are the boards between the joists I was talking about in the comments on the last post. They might be able to be removed. I’m not sure what their purpose is nor what is behind them. I think they are just holding in rock wool if I were to guess.

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Here is a few joists over in a another area I’m not exactly sure what to do… expanding foam?

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And some dreaded knob and tube wiring that is going to be in the way. They run directly between the joist and the concrete. I’m not exactly sure where they are going to be honest. Either to the porch light (less likely) or to the main floor bedroom outlets (more likely). I’ll have to look into it a bit further to determine it.

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3 Comments

3 Comments

  1. momomatic  •  Feb 8, 2009 @7:31 pm

    I have *no* idea how I found your site, but yay! I love knowing that there are people out there so willing to work hard to restore an old home.

    The home we just bought (we move in in March) isn’t as old as yours (it was built in 1967), but there’s alot of work ahead of us.

    Anyhoo–I really look forward to watching your new home come together. I’m bookmarking now! :)

  2. Greg  •  Feb 26, 2009 @9:45 am

    (this is probably late, but I thought I’d comment anyway in case someone else stumbles across this blog like I just did).

    There’s no problem of using PEX (or PVC) for your main lines – it’s very popular in new houses to only use PEX. You’d probably want to use at least 3/4″. That looks to me like a 3/4″ or 1″ galvanized line – it MAY be easier to use PVC to mate up to it, depending on where it’s going. Since PEX is flexible, it is relatively easy to do more complex things with it – routing between rafters and around other pipes and ducts – whereas PVC is more rigid, and requires much more planning and measuring before you glue everything together.

    Assuming your main line is galvanized, you should be able to unscrew one of the fittings and just use the existing threads/fittings to mate up to a threaded PVC or PEX adapter. If you need to re-thread the galvanized, it requires a special tool and is a bit of a pain to use, especially in a tight space.

    The one downside to PEX is that it requires a special crimp tool to put it together. Most plumbers will actually have at least two types of crimps – a normal one that crimps the $0.30 rings, and a smaller one that can crimp the $2 quick-connect rings, which is good when you need to get in tight places. If you’re careful and think about what order you crimp things in, in my experience MOST jobs can be done without the quick connect rings. After you crimp, you can still rotate the angles of the pipes, so you can often crimp a fitting before putting it where it needs to go. The crimp tools are $150-300 each, so it’s probably better to rent them for one-off jobs.

    PEX probably takes about 20% of the time of a copper install – and likely more for a beginner, because copper soldering takes some practice to get good at. PVC is probably about 60% of the time of copper, because you still have to measure, cut, dry-fit, then disassemble, glue, and re-assemble.

  3. Shane  •  Feb 26, 2009 @9:51 am

    Wow, thanks for the info Greg! I was getting to the point where I was just going to give up and box around the pipes. After reading this, I’m getting tempted to do it in PVC. I’ll probably read up on it a bit more before I tackle it.

    Once again, thanks a million!

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